My March Make – Simple Sew Crossover Back Blouse

When I’m not blogging regularly I feel a guilt – the same kind that you feel when you don’t call friend that you know you should. But as with all good friends they’re always there for you, whether you called or not and although I’ve not been blogging, I have been making!

I’ve a couple of bigger projects on the go and a good few waiting to be started, that will be shared in time. I did however manage to make a top that straddled February and March, so my promise to make a garment a month is staying true – well to some extent.

This time I choose a very simple pattern, a Cross Over back blouse from Love Sewing (Issue 17) The Simple Sew #015 Jersey Top and cross over back blouse dual pattern. The irony is that I think I chose the wrong fabric, which proved a little troublesome at times.

Blue is one of my favourite colours and I find myself wearing it more and more, as the birthdays pass by. Being quite pale, black tends to wash me out, although I wear it from time to time. I found this blue pinstriped polyester cotton mix in Leons, which is a South Manchester (and Birmingham) fabric shop, but unfortunately not online.

The pattern was really straight forward, with just three main pieces and three facings. There were also sleeve facings and although I cut these, I didn’t sew these on, for reasons I’ll explain.

The polyester mix was a little thicker and heavier than I expected. Once I’d attached the facing to the main pieces they kept dropping and didn’t even stay in place with a tack as suggested in the instructions. Also the fabric pulled quite easily, so some of the very light tacks are almost visible from the front – well to my eye anyway.

It proves that a test fit is worth it’s weight in fabric, as after sewing the side and shoulder seams I slipped the top on (hospital gown style!) to find that the armholes were too tight. I’m no body builder, but it wouldn’t have been a comfortable wear so I reduced the seam allowance to 5mm around the arm hole and that did the trick.

Based on this rather than added the armhole facing, which I had dutifully cut and interfaced but was quite heavy, I sought out some liberty bias binding and sewed this on, right sides together then hand tacked this on the inside of the sleeve, to avoid any bulk. I’m glad I did as it adds a pretty hidden touch to the top.

I love the back detail, although again the fabric makes it balloon a little, rather than drape.

Overall I’m happy with it but wished I’d used a 100% cotton, lawn or even a viscose that would have given it some drape and a more flattering shape. I’d normally wear a long sleeved top under this (I’m a cold girl at heart!), but boat neck won’t allow for this so this top will be broken out when the weather get a little bit warmer.

The bonus is I still have the other top to make which is next on my list.